Day 12: Vengurla – Panaji

We started at sunrise, full of enthusiasm after an early morning bath. Today’s the day we’re crossing the Maharashtra border into Goa. We followed State Highway 4, which initially was wide and smooth, but later on became kutcha and in desperate need of reconstruction. Highway? I’ve seen country roads in a better state of repair. However, the saving grace in the morning run was that it did pass through forests and the weather was nice and cloudy.


With conditions such as this, I could cycle all day. As we approached the border however, the clouds lifted and sweat started pouring down – very high humidity here. The bridge at Satarda signified the end of Maharashtra and eleven days of glorious cycling in it. We stopped at the middle of the bridge, thinking this over.


Later on, we chatted with the man in charge of the Goa octroi check post who gave us info on Goa. We decided to halt the afternoon at Pedne (Pernem). Had an inexpensive lunch which tasted subtly different from Maharashtrian food. Psychological?

After food, a local directed us onward to a small temple, beside which a mini stream flowed. This stream was dammed and a small pipe served as a perennial tap for the locals to meet all their water requirements. We went to the temple and slept soundly on its cool floor.

At 4:30pm, we started for Panaji (Panjim). A few km from Pedne, we met the national highway which was in marked contrast with the state highway – wide, smooth and low gradients. The only problem was the pollution, and this direct transition from the clean air of coastal Maharashtra was somewhat of a shock. We arrived at Panaji, tired, haggard and extremely dirty and made straight for the police station.

There is a water shortage in the city of Panaji (This was also there the last time I’d visited – about seven years back. Things have not improved!) We waited for municipal water and at 7:30pm had our baths in the police compound. Dinner in the police canteen was the cheapest (Rs10!) so far but reminded us of hostel mess grub.

Since we had scrounged so much on the cash front today, we decided to make it up with dessert. We roamed the streets on foot, clutching ice-creams. Madhu convinced us into heading towards Miramar beach which was “just 15 mins”, but after half an hour there were still 2km left. Ditched and walked back. Sat for some time on a bench by the river. The city was totally dead.

We returned at midnight and slept inside the police station.

Estimate of distance covered today: 105km