Ready by 7:30am, we left for Harihareshwar (19km), warned by the PSI not to have a bath here. Apparently his hands are full with drowning cases of pilgrims who try and emulate the Pandavas - who allegedly washed away their sins here. A really beautiful road with nice weather ensured a great ride. This was one of the best stretches so far, with no steep climbs and lots of good views.
Reached Harihareshwar at 9:30am. Spent the afternoon in the town, though not much to see but the temple. The sea is polluted, and so is the town. Had lunch and left for Baghmandle (4km) at 2:30pm. There is a ferry from here to Bankot opposite at 3:30pm and I’m writing this waiting for it. A little discussion with the locals on how to reach Dapoli as their suggestion doesn’t tally with what the map shows. Let’s see.
A note about the food - all the food we've been having so far is standard full lunches (thalis). No fancy protein supplements or anti-dehydrants. The food's been quite all right, though the quality differs. No upset stomachs or major illnesses yet. Shyam has a cold, but still finishes his sugarcane juice by munching the ice cubes.
There was a minor drama at the ferry wharf as Krishnan’s cycle took the plunge into the creek. Surprisingly, everything floated. The boatman calmly fished out the cycle with a boathook, waited for the bag to reach him and then took the ferry after the carrimat. The recovery was complete, although there was salt water in everything. We had to wait till about 5 until things were sorted out. I chatted with a local opposite the wharf in Bankot. There’s a festive atmosphere here due to someone’s marriage here tomorrow. The local, a very nice and friendly chap, works at Nhava Sheva and has taken a holiday for this.
The route via Madangad is too long and we enquire about a more direct route via Kelshi. This follows the Madangad road for 13km, all uphill and then a minor road (इतर झिल्ला रसता) branches downhill 12km to Kelshi. This road is a little bad and full of ups and downs, but it is nicer, narrower and enjoyable. By the time we reached Kelshi, it was already 8pm and we decided not to push on any further.
Kelshi is a really small town and we took a break from tradition by not visiting the police station. Instead we went into the town to a “Punyai Lodge” where the owner initially quoted Rs175/day/head for board and lodge. Steep! Pleading that we’re students failed to budge him. Finally Krishnan played the culture card and people were moved. The lady of the house independently moved inside to prepare dinner, while the owner asked us to quote our price – any price and he would accept! We decided on Rs60/person, which for dinner, good shower bath and family type atmosphere, everyone felt was reasonable.
The old man seemed a man after Krishnan’s heart and we had long conversations about Indian culture, RSS (he’s a staunch supporter) etc. After bath we had dinner together with two neighbours, both very nice and caring. One of them turned out to be a close friend of Prof Sahasrabuddhe. Devajit, who's taken his course, is amazed at the smallness of this world.
Estimate of distance covered today: 48km
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